Restaurant Kajsas Fisk

Nestled in Hötorgshallen in Central Stockholm, Restaurant Kajsas Fisk had been on my radar for a two key reasons. First, people were raving about its legendary fish soup – supposedly chock-full of ingredients AND that you could get a second bowl for free. Second, the restaurant also had a self-serve station where you may (demurely or barbarically, dealer’s choice) gorge yourself on bread and salad.

If the promise of a free refill and a complimentary salad bar does not excite you, you may be diagnosed with the debilitating condition of “having quite a lot of money”.

Having been to this absolute gem three times (and counting) so far, I knew to anticipate the lunch crowd. Squeezing past hordes of chairs packed tightly together, I once again found a seat off in a little corner, safe from the judgment of others when I inevitably refill my bread and salad for the fourth time.

Placing my order at the counter (the Fish Soup costs 145 SEK at the time of writing), the lovely lady immediately procured a large bowl (seemingly out of thin air, I think, as I was caught up in a particularly riveting Instagram reel) and opened the lid of a huge vat. In it was about a reservoir’s worth of soup. Using a huge ladle, she scooped up an obscene amount of ingredients (hint: foreshadowing) with each dip into the vat.

She then placed a large dollop of some sort of an aioli near the inner rim of the bowl, and directed my attention to a smaller bowl of salsa that I could lace my soup with (to my heart’s content). Before heading back, I made a beeline for the self-service station, grabbing both soft bread and knäckerbröd, some butter, and a bowl of salad (which I topped with some garlic dressing and mustard). I also took the time to familiarise myself with the layout of the station – the less time I spent grabbing these foods, the more time I could use to stuff myself.

At last, my meal in all its glory.

My Thoughts

The fish soup itself was incredibly hearty, and tasted very savoury with a bunch of different spices. The exact flavour profile eluded me (for I am no Anthony Bourdain), but I shall try my best to explain it. The soup had such a punchy seafood richness, with distinct notes of paprika, tomato, and fennel. The closest resemblance would be an Eastern European goulash dish. Each spoonful I took was loaded with my little aquatic friends – fish, shrimp, mussel, clam – and I remember thinking to myself, “I wonder how many of them had a family and a decent paying job?”.

Personally, as great as the fish soup was, what really surprised me (and spurred me to make the pilgrimage back multiple times) were the aioli and salsa. The aioli was creamy and garlicky, which when paired with the heartiness of the fish soup, made for a metaphorically jaw-dropping mouthfeel. On the other hand, the tomato salsa was SPICY, like Eastern Europe spicy (as opposed to Scandinavian spicy). Spicy enough to make a half-grown man cry – but not me, for I am a grown man.

The two types of bread worked very well in scooping up the soup, aioli, and salsa. They also provided heft to the meal (though, the soup already had plenty of heft). The salad was fresh, and the dressings provided for a nice, tangy burst of flavour.

Once I was done with the first bowl – with stomach almost at full-capacity – I steeled myself and made my way to the counter for a second bowl. After being instructed to place my finished bowl at the tray-return area, the lady at the counter ladled me a fresh bowl of soup. This time around, the bowl was filled about slightly more than halfway full, but each ladle was STILL loaded with ingredients. Of course, she did not forget to portion out some liquid-gold aioli as well.

In awe, stuffed, and possibly overloaded on seafood, I trudged back to my table and prepared to make way for yet more food. Such a privileged dilemma to have.

Rating

Value-for-money: 5/5. This was an incredibly generous portion of food for 145 SEK. I'd say it was enough food for two people to feel satiated.

Taste: 4/5. Even though this fish soup won't blow your mind with groundbreaking new flavours, it surely is a heavy-hitter in the "comforting soul food" department.

Total: 9/10. How fitting it is that the first post of Stockholm Bangers starts off with a proper, certified all-star banger.